Our journey from Hinterrhein to Ghirone, which is the last village you get to by bus, went smoothly. Then again, we were in Switzerland... The problem was getting to Lago Luzzone. In the summer there is a service that runs up to the damm, but apart from the fact that it was already too late the service has been suspended for the time being because of a landslide above the lake. The options were to try to get somebody to take us up or walk, which would have taken at least an hour. For Maurizio, thank god for that, as a true Italian, it is natural to ask favours and bargain. And he is diplomatic and friendly and almost always finds a way to sort things. He had talked a very nice local couple into taking us up to the lake when - what a coincidence - a taxi passed by that was going up to the lake to pick up a group of tourists. He took us up for ten francs (bargain!) And we were at the car at six. So lucky.