This is where it started, this is where it ends, my trip around Bornholm. Back on the ferry, my conclusion is that I wouldn't do the whole Kyststi again. But I would definitely come back to beautiful Bornholm and walk some of the path's nicest stretches. Tonight, I will be in Berlin again but I hope to be back soon to report on more walking adventures.

This is my charming Airbnb accomodation for tonight. A cosy annex in the lovely garden you see from the bed. The bathroom you use is in the main house, which is also beautiful and nicely furbished. From the end of Lufthavn airfields it was a seemingly endless and tiresome walk into Rønne, first on gravel roads then on cycle paths and then on a natural path next to the road and through a park, shaded by trees. It was the longest stretch of the Kyststi with roughly 23 km.

Anager cliff. The walk from there on all kinds of rock formations, sand and pebbles was a lot easier than the guide predicts, then there are steps leading onto the cliff, which I climbed because I wanted the view from above. You can of course continue on the beach which might be the better choice considering that you don't see much of the sea while you walk along the fence of Rønne airport for quite a long time.

On the way onward to Anager with the long bridge leading to the harbour, I did at some point leave the beach to follow the original Kyststi on the cliffs because I needed a break from the sand and pebbles. But it was soon down to the beach again, now different and more interesting from.a geological view because there were pebbles of all sizes and colours, varying types of stone and clay a some stone hopping to do.

I had a great breakfast and nice chat at Vandrehjem Rosengården before walking the long road down to Boderne, where it's more or less straight to the beach. It wasn't easy walking to Sose Bugt because there were pebbles and stones on the beach, some trees to climb over or walk around and some soft sand. It made the roughly 5km seem much longer. The official path takes you up and down steps to the dunes and back again but the locals say it's not worth it and you should stick to the beach instead.

I really like the personal details the friendly and well-travelled couple have added like wind chimes from various different countries. And the food was amazing, especially for a hostel. Lucky for me, the owner is also a vegetarian and made quinoa burgers just for me. There were many salads, all vegetarian, out-of-the-box and healthy. I may have benefited from the fact that there is a group of Danish bikers that comes regularly and is having a barbecue. I'm lucky they serve food in the first place because I learned that the restaurant at Boderne doesn't exist anymore. Now I have been treated to walnut schnaps, home-made from the tree in the garden. I'm more than happy to be here and highly recommend the hostel. There are two things other walkers might want to know: it's close to the road and bus stop, for people walking alone, it's expensive because you can only book a room. Dorms as we know them are not commonplace here.

I caught the bus - you have to walk one km to get to the bus stop - to Vandrehjem Rosengården, a private youth hostel. I had booked and paid a B&B in Aarkirkeby and realised only later - bad planning - that it was very far away and extremely complicated to reach from Boderne by public transport. The B&B didn't reply to my emails asking if there was a paid pick-and-drop, so I thought sod it and booked into the hostel. There are quite a lot bad reviews online but I don't necessarily trust them. It was a good decision. I think it's lovely, there is a huge garden with fireplace, small conservatory, cafe, terrace and lots more. My room is great, it's ensuite and clean. 

This is more or less what I saw all day. Sea, sand, shrubbery and some trees. My friendly B&B host was so kind to drive me down to Snogebæk after a good breakfast and nice chat. I walked on the sand for hours, first at Dueodde on the wide, white beach with hard sand that was easy to walk on. Then the beaches become narrower and the sand softer, making walking quite exhausting and a little boring. To be fair, though, I missed a turn that would have taken me to a path through woodland. At Øster Sømarken I heard the sound of gunfire, as the guide had predicted. I had hoped that the firing range would be open but because of the shooting I heard and the fact that it wasn't possible to get information about whether or not the range was closed, I decided not to risk an almost 6km detour on roads and took the bus.

This is my accomodation for tonight, Myregaard B&B. It's a very nice place, quite big, very professional and quite far inland. I took a bus from Snogebæk to Povls Kirke and still had to walk 1km to the B&B. I did that three times because I had to return to the small town for food. Pizza again at a very popular place but it wasn't really good. Not like Italian pizza. 

The last stretch to Snogebæk is along a white beach with incredibly hard sand, which is good for walking. I took off my boots and walked barefoot in the cool and beautifully clean water. After a nice chat with a lovely Danish woman who would have liked to sell her house to me - I wish - I reached the small centre of Snogebæk.

I think these are orchids. Whatever they are, there are loads of them everywhere.

The official Kyststi walk towards the beach at Balka follows a dirt road but there is a slightly higher path on the left. It's a protected area loved by birdwatchers.

This is mainly what the landscape looked like until reaching the quarry. From the camping site there towards, through and away from Nexø - the second biggest town on Bornholm after Rønne - it was a terribly long, tiring and unplesant walk on roads and later on tarmac cycle paths.

It's a fine walk from Årsdale to Stenbrudssøen near Nexø, following narrow paths at sealevel and navigating lots of stones, which was a welcome change, fun and better for my feet.

The Dutch windmill at Årsdale.

Svaneke harbour in the morning. And the lighthouse at Svaneke Fyr which is a holiday home. There was no milk at my Airbnb and I had to walk the 2km back into town, hoping that I could have a hot drink somewhere but everything was closed. At the Hullehavn camping site, which is very nice, I finally had a cupper at the kiosk there, run by a very friendly couple.

Look at me how beautiful I am.

You can walk around for ages.

But the most remarkable thing about this place is the garden. Hidden from sight when you get to Fuglesang, it's not really a garden but a park with lots of peacocks, most of them white. Lovely.

My accomodation for tonight: Fuglesang. I had to walk on the road for 2km to get there, I thought I might try to hitchhike but there were only two cars going in the opposite direction. Once again, the place is huge with kitchen and two living rooms and I have it all to myself.

The ferry returned to Gudhjem at 3pm. It was too late to walk all the way to Svaneke, so I caught a bus to Bølshavn and walked from there. I had hoped to have skipped the more than 5km of walking on roads but I hadn't. It was not a long walk. Svaneke is definitely a place for posh people. I had some food at tapas bar Vinøst, the only place that was open for food besides the smokehouse in the harbour. The food was very good and very expensive.

It is a beautiful group of islands with lots of  beautiful flowers, plants and birds including razorbills and guillemots. And seals you can see and hear as they sunbathe on small rock formations close to Græsholm. The narrow bridge connects Christiansø and Frederiksø.

Approaching the Ertholmene archipelago with its islands Chrisiansø, Frederiksø and Græsholm. Christiansø is a well-preserved naval fortress founded in 1684. 90 people live on the islands that have everything from a school and church to a library and a mini brewery run by the island's doctor.

The ferry Ertholm is ready to depart to Christiansø. With me on board and a nice German woman who stayed at the same Airbnb. 

After roughly 17km, I reached my Airbnb for the night, perfectly located for walkers, close to the coast and the small centre where I had a decent pizza at Brøddan restaurant and café, with a nice view of the sea. Gudhjem is pretty and a bit busier than the other places so far. I'm tempted to take the boat to Christiansø islands tomorrow. They are said to be beautiful and special. If I do, I will not be able to walk all the way to Svaneke.

The path takes you down to sea level, through woodland with wild garlic everywhere.

After nice cliff-top walking with quite a lot of ups and downs you pass Dine's lille maritime café, where I had tea before carrying on to Gudhjem. From the café it's a roughly 60-minute walk.

The path slowly climbs to Helligdomsklipperne, beautiful cliffs with a  lovely small bay you reach descending wooden steps and where you can board the "Thor" that will take you to Gudhjem and back. The path on the cliffs leads past many viewpoints and steps leading down to tiny pebble beaches that invite you to explore and swim.

Finally, there is a slightly hidden Kyststi sign on the left, leading down to Stammershalle and then past beaches and on paths through lush and natural woodlands to Bådsted and towards Helligdommen cliffs.

Tejn harbour, or a part of it. On the other side there is a shipyard, still in use. From Tejn, it's 3km of walking on the road. Not nice at all. I recommend you skip that stretch and take the bus. If there are any. I also made an involuntary detour following the sign to a shelter, hopeful to escape the road, but the path ended in the undergrowth and I had to head back. I also missed the burial sites on the way, probably because they are not easy to find but mostly because I was too focused on finally getting away from the road.

After a proper breakfast (my first B&B so far), I made my way to Allinge (attached to Sandvig), where I bought a cap because the sun is incredibly powerful, even in late May. It was mostly pleasant walking, despite walking on cycle paths and gravel roads. Once at Sandkås, you encounter a few deserted and pretty beaches. Then you get to Tejn harbour on more dirt roads. 

I had food at this very cool and different place called Sandlinien, just down the road from my B&B. Again, they were incredibly nice. It was the only place that was open and closed at 7pm. I hadn't expected food to be such a problem. Many restaurants and cafes are only open Wednesday to Sunday, according to my host because of staff shortages. For vegetarians, it's really difficult. If you're lucky, you'll get a meat-free burger. That's about it. If the places are open, they close at 7pm at the very latest. It's not holiday season yet.

A very warm welcome at Nørdvig B&B and a lovely chat with its super friendly and welcoming owner. It was a 19km walk plus the 2km from Svalhøj back to the coast.

From the lighthouse at the end of the Hammerknuden head it's once again a narrow tarmac road that leads to the small city of Sandvig, my destination for today.

The ruins of medieval Hammerhus fortification from afar. I got there after a bread-and-cheese break at Vang which has two cafes, one open. I didn't walk up to the ruins because I wasn't in the mood for another detour up many wooden steps.

A superb tree greeting walkers with great dignity.

After crossing an iron bridge over a former granite quarry, you walk along a pebble beach and through woodlands with gnarly trees and loads of blooming wild garlic.