And Hudson, the full pedigree silver labrador I bribed with treats.

Who's that doggy... it's Sasan, one of the two friendly resident dogs.

A tea and sandwich break at Kirk Michael, where I waited for the bus that would take me to Sulby, where I had booked into The Sulby Glen Hotel, no accomodation available in Kirk Michael. The Dovecote Tearoom is lovely with a huge offer of cakes and other food. It had started to rain heavily when I arrived there and hasn't stopped since.

After a while the Raad ny Foillan led me down to the beach I walked along for almost 2km. There wasn't a problem with the tide, so I made it safely onto the path again, looking back at the stretch I'd walked.

 

It was a walk on the road, then along the old railway that closed in 1968. It's a flat grassy path you follow for a long time. There was a lot of water and mud in many parts. I was lucky with the weather, it started to rain later than forecast. But I ended up with thoroughly wet boots again because the path ended in a massive puddle at some point, with no way to get around it. I went almost knee-deep into the water.

This is where I had breakfast this morning. A bit scary with the dead animals on the wall. My absent hosts had left some food for breakfast, wasn't great but ok.

It was quite nice walking back in the dark. Not even that dark thanks to the (full) supermoon tonight. 

Langcroft Manor is the Airbnb I'm staying tonight. My host wasn't there but left instructions. It is a nice place but not ideal for walkers, who need food in the evening. It is a long walk of more than 30 minutes into Peel and another more than 30 minutes back.

Tea and toastie as a late breakfast after leaving the Dalby Hub on an empty stomach this morning. It was lovely sitting on the Promenade and chiööing in the sun.

Approaching Peel and Peel Castle.

The path mostly seemed like a soft light green carpet winding through the scenic landscape.

The first blue sky I've seen since I arrived on the isle of man. It was a fine walk to Peel, up and down low grassy cliff tops, often fighting against the very strong wind.

After a warm shower I took a stroll down to Niarbyl beach where there is a nice cafe and restaurant right next to the sea. Closed until further notice - could be a project for me. Then I tried to dry my soaked boots at least a little before they get wet again. More bad weather to come.

Welcome flapjack and wood burner included. It's a lovely place managed by the church and - in my case - Gillian, who went out of her way to help and make me comfortable.

The small and pretty St. James Church in Dalby and the entry to the Dalby Hub and bunkhouse just around the corner. A visitor's centre during the day, it is also a lovely self-catering flat with everything you need.

Niarbyl beach in the distance. Getting there was quite demanding, down a very long and steep descent on eroded paths full of water. The last stretch especially was one to be careful, following a very narrow and overgrown path - more a track really - moving up and down through bracken and often very close to the edge of the cliff. But - I'm so happy - I saw dolphins today!

The narrow path led through gorse and heather with fine views despite the dark clouds and sea mist.

It was quite hard walking with long climbs and descents. Looking back you will see two of the three hills I climbed up and down today. Some rather steep and not easy to walk. The cairn on the third hill, Cronk ny Arrey Laa, is a prehistoric burial site and the highest point of the Raad ny Foillan.

Looking back at Milner's Tower, the Calf of Man on the right and Port Erin hidden away on the left.

Milner's tower and the Raad ny Foillan sign, not too many of them around.

Walking out of Port Erin towards Milner's Tower on a nice paved walkway zigzaging through the lower vegetated cliff and then climbing towards the monument. It didn't rain but was cloudy and still very windy albeit not close to yesterday and the day before.

A short non-rain, almost sunny spell as I left my B&B to get food at The Station. It's a proper B&B like the ones I knew as a child, where you are greeted warmly with tea and Victoria sponge. The walk from the cafe to Port Erin was also beautiful, narrow paths, ups and downs on rocky terrain, a bit like the mountains. After being blewn about again and walking down steps into the town that had turned into a river of sorts I reached my destination for 

Comfort tea and scone at the Sound Cafe, where I sought refuge from heavy heavy rain and extremely strong wind. It's a lovely cafe with great views over the tiny Kitterland island and the Calf of Man. The weather made the walk challenging, there were some exposed bits and ups and downs. A shame because the walk itself is truly beautiful on grassy cliff tops, some scrambling on rocks and "The Chasms", rifts in the earth hidden beneath heather, a bit like crevices. It would have been nice to stop to take in the views, instead it was eyes on the path as I was pelted by rain and blown around by the gusts.

The path out of Port St. Mary followed a stone wall reminiscent of a fort. I walked for sime 30 minutes without rain but with strong wind. I left late because of the forecast and the fact that it would not be a long walk.

I arrived at Port St. Mary earlier than expected and waited at the Albert pub until I could check into my Airbnb. I listened to some locals joking and talking about cats. It is easy to get into contact, people are very friendly and helpful. Then I checked into Marina House, which - as I know now - is also a diving centre. Once again, quite run down but with friendly hosts and a lovely view from the kitchen over the bay. The forecast for tomorrow is bad. Very bad.

At around midday the weather changed and it was a beautiful afternoon. I walked past a quarry along a nice path after leaving Castletown, where I looked in vain for a Raad ny Foillan guide in the tiny library but had a lovely chat. I was soaked through because my poncho was basically ripped apart by the wind but it was not cold at all and the sun dried at least a bit of my drenched body and boots. Unfortunately the path towards Port St. Mary wasn't a path at all, it was an endless walk along a very busy road, quite awful.

Looking back towards Castletown and the peninsula Langness. I started walking at around 9am, down past St. Williams College (where you can stay during the term break) to Derbyhaven. By the time I reached Langness it had started to rain and I walked around the peninsula in pouring rain and gale-force winds.

Fiona Bartholomew
Zeppelinstr. 98
13583 Berlin

0176 87792439 fiona.bartholomew@gmail.com

I walked into Castletown to move my legs and get some food. I ended up at "The George" (a local's recommendation), where I had an incredibly expensive vegetarian burger (only option). The sun was shining when I arrived bit the forecast is bad, saying it will rain heavily for days. The plan is to walk from Derbyhaven to Port St. Mary's tomorrow. We'll see.

I arrived on the Isle of Man today, later than expected due to a string of minor complications. I took the plane from Frankfurt to Heathrow and then flew into Ronaldsway. I'm staying at the Sefton Express, the rather run-down and somewhat depressing "airport hotel" but it's functional. I will walk the "Raad ny Foillan", a costal path around the island, if all goes well.