Wednesday 27 December 2023

Our last day of walking ended at a very pretty and somewhat alternative bar where we had our final poncha. Tomorrow we will all part ways and travel to our individual destinations. Saying goodbye to beautiful walks on a fascinating island.

The tunnel is 800m long, high enough, wide enough but still a little scary for people like me. All went well and the fern-overgrown walls at the exit are very pretty.

We followed the levada through some interesting rock formations towards a tunnel.

And another waterfall and pool, the best-known for the fact that there are 25 sources emerging from the rock. Hence the name 25 fontes. Again many people around. It was the third detour, some steps to climb and descend and a sort of one-way system to follow because the paths along the levada are narrow.

The picture looks crooked but isn't, it's the trees that are growing sideways.

Another - very pretty - waterfall and pool. And again quite a lot of people.


And so we came to the first pool and waterfall. Again, it was a rather touristy tour with quite a lot of people about.

Today it was levada walking again and waterfall spotting. A mostly relaxed walk, flat along a lavada for quite a while and detours taking us to natural pools and waterfalls.

Tuesday 26 December 2023

The tiny harbour of Porto Moniz with some very interesting plants.

We were picked up and taken to Porto Moniz, known for its natural swimming pools. It's the first time we're so close to the sea. We arrived quite early, it was a relaxed walk today compared with the past two walks.

More laurels, draped over the soft grassy hill. Eduardo says they survived the weather and hungry animals and that parts of the forest are more than 2000 years old.

Then we reached another plateau with an amazing view over more laurels, the sea and the village Porto Moniz, where we are staying tonight. The landscape was very varied today and so different to the past days.


In the early afternoon we reached the Laurisilva, a laurel forest and UNESCO Heritage Site. It was beautiful, magical somehow, evoking a Lord of the Rings feeling.

Our walk today started on a plateau and led us through heather bushes and tree heather for quite a long time, walking gently up and down with some fine views. 


Monday 25 December 2023

A very late Poncha today. I'm having blog difficulties today, technically. Don't know why, don't know what you can see, what not. Many beautiful photos missing, commentaries also. It was a terribly long descent. The hotel not too welcoming. And the Poncha was missing, which is bad luck. So we made good late. 

...and where we were going.



Looking back at where we came from...

A short break before continuing to climb further. The sun was shining hard, the views were amazing.

Today's walk again started with a long climb through a forest of eucalyptus trees.

The view this morning from our hotel Eira do Serrado. Absolutely amazing. The hotel's location is unbeatable and the hotel itself also.

Sunday 24 December 2023

It's a busy walk because it's easy technically and well-secured but it is challenging. There were many people in the most diverse outfits and from many countries. Many of them drove up to the summit where there is a cafe, a welcome stop for us to sit after climbing 1500m in total and have the meanwhile mandatory poncha.

So many steps, especially on the last - long - stretch towards Pico do Arieiro. Never-ending climbing steps. Phantastic views, phantastic path, along a (very safe) ridge with phantastic views.

And unexpected guests. A group of extremely pretty and very unfrightenend pheasant-like birds came straight towards me like a committee asigned to meeting me in person.

There was a lot of ups and downs with sometimes very high steps and metal stairs in especially steep passages and some tunnels.

The second part of the walk was stunning, following narrow paths close to the edge with incredible views.


Views from the summit


Today our walk took us to Madeira's highest mountain Pico Ruivo (and onwards). We knew it would be a tough walk, a very long climb to 1862m, through the forest, some slippery stones and then the sun.

Saturday 23 December 2023

So much water everywhere, in the air, under your feet, next to you, above you, coming from the mountains... and four tunnels, some ducking required and careful walking as the ground - when not on the narrow wall next to the levada - was muddy and full pf stones and roots. A very busy path though because it's a popular tourist destination.


When we came to a beautiful natural pool below an impressive waterfall, our walk ended and we walked back the way we came from. The original path would have continued but was closed due to a major landslide. Back at the starting point, where we had a "Poncha Pause" at the cafe, we were picked up and taken back to the hotel. It was an easy, rather short time-wise and  we were back at the hotel early. Another mild and cloudy day, no rain and no sun. 


Again, we followed a levada, mostly on the adjacent wall, occasionally shower inclusive, for almost the entire walk. Passing majestic trees like - as Eduardo says: Canadian cedar - and later on along an impressive abyss to the right, not menacing for the wide-enough path and the lush green hiding the utter drop into the void.