Goodbye beautiful, rainy, stormy Isle of Man and its friendly Manx people. Would I walk the Raad ny Foillan again? No. Would I walk certain stretches again? Definitely. Would I come back again? Absolutely.
Today Madeira. Earlier this year, the Isle of Man, Bornholm. Long after my months of serious walking in the Alps. So different, in every aspect. But I want to walk. I will not give up.
Saturday, 7 October 2023
Friday, 6 October 2023
Approaching Port Soderick, shortly before arriving, there was a grassy and narrow path, then down many steps to the beach and through Port Soderick Glen before reaching the road again. When I got to the main road, it started to rain heavily and knowing that it would be another 3 miles at least on the road before the nicer walk started, I spontaneously put my thumb out and the first car that came stopped. That was the end of my walking, my friendly driver dropped me off at Castletown, where my journey began ten days ago.
I got thoroughly wet anyway, walking along the long promenade in Douglas, in search of my Airbnb. It never stopped raining until shortly before dawn, when I walked around the town to get food. Douglas is big and I couldn't warm to the town at all. It wasn't a very good day, I didn't like the place I was staying and had bad food. The only positive thing was the Manx Museum. I hadn't booked my last night, had considered two nights in Douglas. But I decided to stay at Castletown, where I would be walking to the next day. My last day on the Isle of Man.
Wednesday, 4 October 2023
Tuesday, 3 October 2023
Laxey Harbour. It's a very pretty place, different than the other towns, special somehow. I had dinner at an Italian restaurant, the only place I was able to get food at all. La Mona Lisa is nice, a bit posh and - not at all typical for Italians - only had two vegetarian options I didn't fancy. So it was pizza, which was good.
After Port Mooar - where wooden pathways were recently installed to make walking easier - unfortunately the road walking started. Long extremely tiresome climbs and descents on roads were followed by a long walk down to the sea through woodland along Glen Cornaa. There - knowing that the rest of the more than 4 mile walk into Laxey would be on roads, I decided to cheat. I hitched a ride from a couple at the tidal lake at the beach up to the main road. Then after another long walk on tarmac and a short stretch on grass I hiked again after seeing the busy road with no pavement I would have had to walk on. Luckily, the people of the Isle of Man are very nuce people. The first car stopped and let me out clise to the campsite where I would be staying tonight.
Monday, 2 October 2023
Goodbye jelly beans, the yellow one is not ear wax. I walked into town to get food, not easy on a Monday. Not easy on a Sunday. Generally not easy. I had at butternut squash lasagne at "Good Stuff", and it was good, but it was a really small portion and cost 15 pounds (!), a glass of wine cost 8.50 pounds.
Baie Mooar, my B&B for tonight. It is without doubt lovely, high-end and professional, beautiful house and rooms. It is also pricy, with a hefty supplement for a one-night stay. And I do not feel welcome, I might not be the kind of guest they want. I'd swap it any time for Dalby Hub, Westlodge and Moorecroft, but it was the only place available at the time of planning my walk.
Meet Cynthia and Graham, a lovely couple from Yorkshire who are housesitting in Andreas. I met them at Bluepoint yesterday, where I had agreed with my B&B hosts to be picked up. They had walked down to the beach from Andreas and said it wasn't far. So we walked back together, which I later regretted - not the company but the walking. We took a - not exactly flattering - selfie in front of my B&B Moorecroft. It is an exceptionally clean and comfortable B&B, but more than that Sarah and her husband were extremely warm and welcoming and went out of their way to make me feel good. I even got a tasty and healthy cooked meal because the local pub and store were closed.
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